Trdelnik Chimney Cake

Walk through the historic streets of Prague and you'll inevitably encounter the intoxicating aroma of trdelnik being freshly baked. This cylindrical pastry, known in English as "chimney cake," has become synonymous with Czech street food culture, though its origins actually trace back to the Hungarian-Slovak border region.

Trdelnik is made from sweet yeast dough that's wrapped around a cylindrical spit (called a "trdlo"), then grilled until golden and crispy on the outside while remaining soft and fluffy within. The freshly baked pastry is brushed with butter and rolled in a mixture of cinnamon and sugar, creating an irresistible combination of textures and flavors.

History and Cultural Significance

The name "trdelnik" comes from "trdlo," the wooden cylinder around which the dough is wrapped. While the pastry has become iconic in Prague, its roots lie in the town of Skalica in Slovakia, where a version called "Skalicky trdelnik" has been made for centuries and now holds protected geographical indication (PGI) status from the European Union.

Traditionally, trdelnik was baked over an open fire, with the cook rotating the spit to ensure even cooking. Modern street vendors in Prague use gas-powered rotating ovens, but the home baker can achieve excellent results using a standard oven with some simple adaptations.

Equipment Needed

The key to making trdelnik at home is having the right molds. You can use:

• Metal cannoli tubes or cream horn molds
• Clean tin cans (about 5-6cm diameter) wrapped in aluminum foil
• Wooden dowels wrapped in several layers of foil
• Purpose-made trdelnik molds (available online)

Whatever you use, make sure it's oven-safe and greased well to prevent sticking. The ideal diameter is 5-7cm (2-3 inches).

Step-by-Step Instructions

Making the Dough

1. In a small bowl, combine the lukewarm milk with the instant yeast and a pinch of sugar. Stir gently and let stand for about 10 minutes until the mixture becomes slightly foamy. This confirms your yeast is active.
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Make a well in the center and add the yeast mixture, egg yolks, melted butter, and vanilla extract.
3. Using a wooden spoon or your hands, gradually incorporate the flour into the wet ingredients until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface.
4. Knead the dough for 8-10 minutes until it becomes smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky. The dough should be soft but not sticky - add a little flour if necessary, but avoid making it too dry.
5. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place for 30-45 minutes until doubled in size.

Shaping and Baking

1. Preheat your oven to 180C (350F). Prepare your molds by greasing them lightly with butter or oil. Mix the sugar and cinnamon together in a shallow dish and set aside.
2. Once risen, gently punch down the dough and divide it into 8 equal portions. Keep the portions you're not working with covered to prevent drying.
3. Roll each portion into a long rope, approximately 50-60cm (20-24 inches) long and about 1.5cm (1/2 inch) thick. The rope should be even in thickness throughout.
4. Starting at one end of your mold, wrap the dough rope around it in a spiral pattern, slightly overlapping each wrap. Pinch the ends to secure them to the mold or tuck them underneath.
5. Place the wrapped molds on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. If your molds can stand upright, arrange them that way; otherwise, lay them on their sides and rotate halfway through baking.
6. Bake for 15-20 minutes, rotating the molds every 5 minutes if laying flat, until the trdelnik is golden brown all over. The pastry should sound hollow when tapped.

Coating and Serving

1. As soon as the trdelnik comes out of the oven, carefully slide it off the mold (use oven mitts - the molds will be hot). The pastry should release easily if properly greased.
2. Immediately brush the hot trdelnik generously with melted butter on all sides. The butter helps the sugar coating adhere and adds richness to the finished pastry.
3. While still warm, roll the buttered trdelnik in the cinnamon-sugar mixture, pressing gently to ensure good coverage. The warmth of the pastry will help the sugar stick and slightly caramelize.
4. Serve immediately while still warm. Trdelnik is best enjoyed fresh from the oven, though it remains delicious for several hours. For the authentic Prague experience, fill the hollow center with whipped cream, ice cream, or Nutella.

Variations and Modern Twists

Traditional Walnut Coating

Mix 50g of finely crushed walnuts into the cinnamon-sugar mixture. Roll the buttered trdelnik in this mixture for a nuttier, more textured finish. This variation is particularly popular in Slovakia.

Chocolate Trdelnik

After coating in cinnamon sugar, drizzle with warm chocolate sauce or dip one end in melted chocolate. Let the chocolate set slightly before serving. Some Prague vendors also fill the center with chocolate mousse.

Ice Cream Filled

A modern Prague innovation is to fill the hollow trdelnik with soft-serve ice cream and top with fresh strawberries or other fruits. This makes for a spectacular warm-cold contrast that's become hugely popular with visitors.

Storage and Reheating

Trdelnik is best eaten fresh and warm, but leftovers can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. To refresh, warm in a 150C (300F) oven for 5-8 minutes until heated through and slightly crispy again. Avoid microwaving, which can make the pastry chewy.

The unfilled dough can be prepared in advance and refrigerated overnight before shaping. Let it come to room temperature for 30 minutes before rolling and wrapping around the molds.

Where to Learn More

For those planning a trip to Prague, you'll find trdelnik stands throughout the Old Town, especially near Charles Bridge and Old Town Square. To learn more about Czech pastries and their history, the Wikipedia article on Trdelnik provides additional historical context and regional variations.